Skulls. Lots and lots of skulls.
The Killing Fields, Phnom Penh, Cambodia. November last year.

I'm assuming most of you will know about the Khmer Rouge's period of rule from 1975 to 1979. Around 2 million Cambodians were killed, many of them having been tortured horrendously first.

On the edge of Phnom Penh, there is a little suburban village called Choeung Ek, where the most famous of the 'killing fields' is situated.

On the day we went, it was a beautiful, clear and sunny day. Hot, just a hint of a breeze: it was perfect weather. Our car drew into the carpark, and we were led to a large 'stupa' (mausoleum), with glass sides. There was something pale inside, but we couldn't tell what it was until we got closer.
They were skulls. Hundreds upon hundreds of skulls, taken from the mass graves surrounding the stupa, piled on top of each other, filling the entire stupa from floor to ceiling. Some still had dirt on, many were missing their jawbones, and most of them were damaged: there were jagged holes in almost every one, from where the victims were killed by having their heads stoved in with hammers, axes, spades or sharpened bamboo sticks. Bullets were considered an unnecessary expense, when there were cheaper ways of killing.
Underneath all of these skulls were various clothes that had been pulled from the mass graves: work shirts, boiler suits, blouses, dungarees. Clothes that belonged to normal people, who wore them to work, rest or go to school in.

One could also walk around the fields, and see where the mass graves had been excavated. Some were unisex, some were for women or men only. The hardest one to look at was a smaller pit, for young children and babies. It was next to a gnarled old tree, upon which is a sign explaining that the children buried in this pit tended to be swung by the ankles against the tree, until their heads broke open. They were then unceremoniously thrown in, some still alive. The smallest babies they would throw up into the air, and impale them on more sharpened bamboo canes.

Walking along the paths, there are fragments of bone sticking up, and sometimes the occasional piece of cloth, from a body that hasn't yet been excavated. That was the worst part, walking around on these bits of bone and clothes, unable to avoid them because they were so numerous. The air was heavy with scent from nearby trees and the smell of freshly-cut grass. We could hear insects buzzing and crickets chirping. However, despite the heat, I felt horribly cold. It was the most upsetting place I have ever been. The knowledge that human beings can kill their own, so very easily, and in such heinous ways, is hideous, and that day will stay vividly in my mind for the rest of my life.

Serious apologies for length, but I can't get across the horror of seing those skulls and bone fragments in a few short sentences.
(The Empress it seems you CAN polish a turd!, Thu 28 Feb 2008, 12:14, 5 replies)

It feels wrong clicking 'I like this'
But it did remind me of visiting Belsen - the concentration camp in Germany where Anne Frank died. There it was warm and sunny in the car park and once through the gates into the park which is all now that remains, the wind howled along with the elderly Jewish women and the birds and insects were silent.

I don't think any human being can fail to be moved when visiting sites of horrendous and massive numbers of deaths.
( chickenlady b3ta's very own Elizabeth Taylor, Thu 28 Feb 2008, 14:21, closed)

Chickenlady
I know what you mean about it feeling wrong to 'click'. I was crying to myself as I wrote it, the memory of being there was so strong.

I've never been to any of the concentration camps in Europe yet, although I will eventually. I think that if one is visiting an area where there are memorials etc, then one should make the effort to visit them, even if it means that an upsetting and traumatising day is guaranteed. It's one of the ways that we can (a) remember the dead, and (b) impart to other humans just how barbaric we can all be, and why it is so important to fight for human rights and justice.
(The Empress it seems you CAN polish a turd!, Thu 28 Feb 2008, 14:58, closed)

Don't apologise for length. Not with this.
A truly chilling, disturbing picture you paint there.

In reply to your later comment, I've been to Auschwitz and it was a time I will never forget. As you say, "The knowledge that human beings can kill their own, so very easily, and in such heinous ways, is hideous, and that day will stay vividly in my mind for the rest of my life."
(Jamie and his magic bat You can bump n' grind, it is good for your mind, Thu 28 Feb 2008, 16:29, closed)

Phnom Penh
I've also seen the skulls outside Phnom Penh as well as Tong Sleng - the torture school that was in the city itself. The worst bit? All the photos taken of the people before they were tortured and then summarily killed. They all look so resigned to their fate.

I have to say that I am glad I went, but I am never going back to it again. It made a far too horrible impression on me and will last a life time. Would recommend it to anyone, but know what you are getting in to...

We are not half as civilised as we like to think we are is probably the main thing I've learnt from all of that.

*Click*
(Spreddum O Grrrr. That's my vicious circle, that is., Fri 29 Feb 2008, 4:50, closed)

Tuol Sleng
Yes, we went to Tuol Sleng after lunch (although having been around Chuong Ek in the morning meant that none of us were particularly hungry). Both were horrible, horrible places, but for some reason (which I can't quite place), I found the Killing Fields affected me far more.
(The Empress it seems you CAN polish a turd!, Mon 3 Mar 2008, 15:13, closed)