They're not massive
at least, not the ones he's catching, as Nazarre can get triple that size or bigger. And they're not hollow and dumping, which is tricky with or without a board. I've bodysurfed bigger waves. my local break regularly has waves around that size on good days. If you can swim and tread water for a couple of hours without a break, then bodysurfing is easier than surfing. It's easier to go deeper under waves and for longer, especially if you're caught in the impact zone. Surfers are you main danger really, it's not much fun if there's a crowded line-up having to duck under oncoming surfers, kooks wiping out with their boards going everywhere
(
cumquat may will not be commenting further on the allegations, Wed 24 Jun 2020, 23:47,
Share,
Reply)