Surfing...
Late take off, slight fade, lots of speed, pulled in, came out, off the lip, and a few people on the shoulder saw me and hooted, big grins, pump, back down to the bottom and hard bottom turn, full rail, back up, floater, hold it and then off the back before the shorebreak folds, landing on my feet in knee-deep water.

Very sweet. I am so fucking cool. Probably one of my best ever waves, but don't show it. Be cool. No expression. I do this every day. Hardcore. I can see people out the back looking towards me to see how my wave ended. Nice. Stop grinning. Cool.

Then, stepping forwards to jump back over the shorey I put my foot in a hole just under the water, sank to my hip, and got the whole of the next wave full in the face which sent me sprawling back up the beach flat on my back, eyes full of sand and water, coughing and spluttering, board tugging on my ankle, tiny stones filling up my wetsuit..

'I really hope no-one saw that' I think as I finally stagger back to my feet.

As the water drained from my ears, I could hear all the people who'd hooted me seconds earlier pissing themselves laughing.

Bollocks.
(inflateable, Mon 31 Jan 2011, 17:49, 5 replies)

i have literally no idea what your first sentence means.
but i bet it's well gnarly, or something.
( janet aylia y'all motherfuckers need jesus, Mon 31 Jan 2011, 19:05, closed)

It's...
... exaggerated for effect, but it does mean stuff, honest...
(inflateable, Mon 31 Jan 2011, 19:16, closed)

I can vouch for it meaning stuff
but I can also say "fucking shortboarders"
( Vipros. clever got me this far, then tricky got me in, Mon 31 Jan 2011, 21:56, closed)

Huh?
Something about the hard shoulder?
(Sadarse works like Mist condensing mud flaps, Mon 31 Jan 2011, 21:27, closed)

Don't
understand the terminology but I understand embarrassment all to well. Have a click
(bROKEN aRROW PUA HVI Master, Wed 2 Feb 2011, 13:13, closed)