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If you can't fix it with a hammer and a roll of duck tape, it's not worth fixing at all, my old mate said minutes before that nasty business with the hammer and a roll of duck tape. Tell us of McGyver-like repairs and whether they were a brilliant success or a health and safety nightmare.
( , Thu 10 Mar 2011, 11:58)
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...is an aluminium bike headset and stem seemingly fused into a vintage steel bike frame. I've tried yanking, WD40, bathing it in Cola for a week, sticking it in a vice.
Last ditch is to break out the hacksaw blades, chop the top off and spend a merry few hours slowly cutting through the aluminium stem from the inside.
Unless any of you have a better solution?
( , Fri 11 Mar 2011, 14:03, 20 replies)
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tap it around etc to get it out?
and lots of wd40
( , Fri 11 Mar 2011, 14:09, closed)
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heating it up. Worked for my headset after it seized in a pavement based collision.
( , Fri 11 Mar 2011, 14:18, closed)
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I had a similar problem and was sorted after a trip to the local blacksmith
( , Fri 11 Mar 2011, 14:26, closed)
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.. of aluminium is 22 - steel is 13.
If you cool it down the aluminium will shrink at twice the rate of the steel.
( , Fri 11 Mar 2011, 14:57, closed)
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heating the whole lot up, then rapidly cooling the aluminum components would potentially free them?
( , Fri 11 Mar 2011, 15:11, closed)
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I suggest using first a blowtorch and then a CO2 fire extinguisher
( , Fri 11 Mar 2011, 15:17, closed)
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Nope, can't see a blowtorch or CO2 extinguisher, what about heating it on the cooker and plunging it in the sink?
( , Fri 11 Mar 2011, 15:22, closed)
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Could work - fill the sink with iced water, heat the whole area and the plunge the aluminium part into the ice.
( , Fri 11 Mar 2011, 15:24, closed)
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The problem is that as you heat it up the joint will get tighter (the aluminium will expand more than the steel). However, aluminium is very conducting - much more so that steel and so you may be able to free it by then cooling the aluminium part quickly while the steel stays hot.
The other approach is to cool the whole area. When the whole lot cools, the aluminium will shrink more than the steel. Not too sure whether practical methods of cooling it will be enough thou'.
Edit vipros' method of a CO2 extinguisher might do it: -78'C. Wear gloves.
( , Fri 11 Mar 2011, 15:21, closed)
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Of someone trying to wedge a bike into a Chest Freezer. I have often made installing bearing shells easier by putting them into the freezer overnight first.
( , Sat 12 Mar 2011, 7:16, closed)
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Had the same problem recently - nearly went donw the saw route, but having done that on a seat post already, didn't fancy it.
It's actually pretty simple to sort. Screw in the long top tightening bolt slightly so it bites on the wedge inside the steerer tube. Then, give the top of the bolt a few taps with a mallet and it should come free. simple.
Check picture 2 here: www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/workshop-how-to-service-a-headset-22225
Donutboy
( , Fri 11 Mar 2011, 15:22, closed)
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Pipe freezing spray would be good i reckon.
( , Fri 11 Mar 2011, 15:50, closed)
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In the way distant past I seem to remember a letter to Mountain Biking UK about how to free an aluminium seat post seized in a steel frame. The answers were:
1: Lots of WD40, then put the frame in a vice and wrench the post around with a pair of mole grips.
2: Cut the post off and use a saw blade to cut the post that's stuck in the frame into little bits.
3: Invent a time machine and go back and grease the post like you should have done in the first place.
Let us know how #3 goes by posting in last week's QOTW.
( , Wed 16 Mar 2011, 14:44, closed)
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